Updated ,first published
French$$
Mood-lit crowd-pleaser for steak frites, shiraz and more.
Where to start at this dapper bistro, all dressed in French oak, mosaic tiles and linen curtains? How about with a Chablis at the 13-metre zinc bar overlooking the open kitchen? Before moving to a lamp-lit table or a copper-lined booth to smear luscious doorstopper-sized chicken liver parfait onto crisp golden brioche?
Next, a wonderfully cheesy comte, gruyere and camembert souffle, or just skip straight to the steak frites topped with a great splodge of herby Cafe de Paris, the fries served in a side bowl and full of crunch.
Cavolo nero salad with fat slivers of cabbage, currants and walnuts is properly dressed, although a snapper fillet topping parsnip puree would have benefited from less time on the heat.
Finish with a warm chocolate tart, ice-cream and rum-soaked raisins, and don’t skip madeleines excellent lemon curd.
Good to know: The Sunday-only roast of pasture-fed whole chicken with champagne jus is great value for two to share.
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Last visited: 2025
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