City Hikes and Day Trips to the DMZ—Eric Ripert’s Guide to Seoul

New York–based chef Eric Ripert may be lauded for French cuisine–in particular Manhattan’s storied Michelin-starred seafood restaurant Le Bernardin—but his latest and eighth cookbook, Mindful Cooking (Random House), takes readers to Seoul. “Seoul has always been a very special city for me. It’s where I was first introduced to the philosophy of temple food,” the French-born chef tells Vogue. “I became deeply inspired by the way Buddhist nuns and monks approach cooking and eating—with mindfulness, intention, and love.”

Ripert first learned about Buddhism after buying a book on Tibet at an airport bookstore in the late 1980s. Since 2014, he’s visited South Korea often, “traveling throughout the country and visiting monasteries where I have had the privilege of learning from temple chefs about not only how to cook temple food but how to nourish oneself and others.”

Two years ago, Gyeho Sunim, chief abbess of Jingwansa Temple in Seoul, prepared a meal for Ripert. At the end, she took off her apron and handed it to him—she was retiring after more than 50 years, and she was passing on to him the responsibility of continuing her practice. “For me, cooking mindfully is ultimately about living mindfully,” Ripert says. “Being more present, more grateful, and more connected to the food we prepare and the people we share it with.”

Restaurant and best dish: “Something unique you’ll find in Korea is raw marinated crab. I like to go to Hwahaedang, a restaurant that keeps things very simple, with only two dishes on the menu. One of the items is soy sauce—marinated crab served with pot rice. If you don’t have a reservation, expect a line—but the wait is worth it. For me, a trip to Seoul is also not complete without makgeolli, Korea’s traditional fermented rice wine. Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli is a hip bistro with an excellent selection of makgeolli to enjoy with the food. I had a gigantic stuffed calamari there that was particularly memorable. And for fine dining, one of the most impressive meals I had in Seoul was at Mingles. Chef Mingoo Kang has created something truly special, bringing together Korean traditions and a very personal, modern style of cooking.

Place I always visit when in town: “When I’m in Seoul, I always stay at the Grand Hyatt. I’ll arrive, drop off my luggage, and walk to Namsan Park, which is right across from the hotel. It’s the largest park in Seoul, and you can take a 30-minute hike to the top of Namsan Mountain, where you’ll get an incredible view of the city.”

Nature escape: “If you’re going to hike up Namsan Mountain, there’s a trail with Buddhist statues and stone carvings from the Silla Kingdom. Being surrounded by nature, art, and history reminds me to slow down and observe what’s around me.”

For peace and quiet: “Seoul is a city of contrasts. There is an incredible sense of energy and liveliness, but just as easily, you can find a quiet corner to take a break. One of my favorite ways to experience this quieter side of Seoul is through its tea houses. I enjoyed visiting Sansuhwa, where you can experience a traditional tea ceremony led by a tea master. It’s a simple and peaceful experience, and you leave with a deeper appreciation for the art of tea.”

Day trip: “I took a day trip to the DMZ [the demilitarized buffer zone between North and South Korea], which was a deeply moving and educational experience. Standing there, you feel the weight of history in a very immediate way. It’s a place that gives you a deeper understanding of Korea’s past and of the forces that have shaped the country.”

Best view: “From the Grand Hyatt, if you look south, you can see the Han River stretching through the city. In the morning, the view is especially beautiful, as the sunrise moves through the high-rises and reflects across the river. It feels like watching Seoul gradually awaken and come to life.”

Best place for people-watching: “Seoungsu is a trendy neighborhood with a young, vibrant energy, which makes it a great place to experience the livelier part of Seoul. The streets are filled with stylish cafés, bakeries, and dessert shops, and there is always something happening around you.”

To practice mindfulness: “To learn more about Temple Food in Seoul, and how to bring more mindfulness into your daily life, I recommend visiting Jingwansa Temple. But there are many temples and monasteries around Korea that you can visit. The nuns and monks I met there prepared the food with great care, fully present in the kitchen and with the ultimate purpose of nourishing the community.”