Whether you were born with pin-straight hair and often need a flyaway fix, or want a smoothing solution for curly-to-straight flexibility, there’s likely a straightening treatment that meets your specific needs. Straightening treatments won’t necessarily eliminate the need for straightening tools like a flat iron or blow dryer; instead, they alter the hair from within, either permanently, with the help of heat, or at a surface level to smooth the cuticle and eliminate frizz. Professional hairstylists break down how different hair-straightening treatments work to help you decide which is best for your texture and styling goals.
What are the different hair-straightening treatments?
Straightening treatments vary by permanency, with the most temporary options being a professional blowout or silk press. Elba Rodriguez, a stylist and educator with John Frieda, explains that there are two main categories of hair-straightening treatments: relaxers, also known as retexturizers, and Keratin treatments, also known as smoothing systems. “What separates them are the active smoothing ingredients, how they’re applied, the processing time, and the overall procedure of the service,” Rodriguez explains to ELLE. More permanent options like keratin, chemical relaxers, and Japanese straightening alter the structure of each strand by either reverting hair to its original form after some time or keeping the strands permanently straight.
Relaxers/retexturizers
Permanent hair-straightening treatments like relaxers and retexturizers change the composition and pattern of curly and coily hair. They restructure the hair to create a smoother, straighter pattern, and that texture stays smooth until the roots grow in, at which point the new growth can be touched up.
Since the chemical process of a relaxer keeps hair straight, you don’t need a flat iron unless you’re creating a specific style. Rodriguez says you also typically need to wait two weeks before or after coloring. Retouching grown-out roots with a relaxer is generally needed every three to four months.
Keratin Treatments
Rodriguez explains that temporary hair-smoothing systems, like keratin, fill the hair cuticle, creating a frizz-free, smooth, and shiny result that gradually washes away and reverts hair to its natural texture over time.
Keratin treatments require a flat iron to activate and seal the smoothing keratin-based solution. “How the hair is flat ironed, and the temperature used are both part of achieving the desired result,” says Rodriguez. Unlike a relaxer, you can color your hair immediately before or after a keratin treatment. Results generally last 10 to 12 weeks.
Keratin treatment formulas for different hair types and desired results:
- Lasio Tropic: Formaldehyde-free; smooths the hair and eliminates most curl patterns. Works nicely on colored hair.
- Solo: Great for removing frizz and adding shine without removing curls.
- Cezanne: Best for damaged hair; not great on color-treated hair.
Are hair-straightening treatments safe?
Straightening treatments are designed to be safe when performed by an experienced professional and when the right formula is used for your hair. “I always consider the hair’s condition, previous color or chemical treatments, and the ingredients in the product before recommending a service,” says hairstylist and Great Lengths global ambassador Dimitris Giannetos. “I would never recommend doing a chemical straightening treatment yourself at home,” he cautions. “There are too many variables, including processing time and the hair's previous treatments, to do it yourself without risk.”
Rodriguez adds that the service professional or stylist should be knowledgeable about how to properly care for the hair, skin, and surrounding environment throughout the process. She also stresses that the chemicals in these formulas can cause hair breakage and burns to the skin or scalp, and therefore should be done only by professionals.
What’s the best straightening treatment for different hair textures?
Instead of choosing a treatment based on the hair texture you’re starting with, use your desired look as your guide. For example, you have curly or coily hair and want to maintain a curl pattern but eliminate frizz; or you want to loosen the curl for better manageability. “Hair condition, hair color, at-home care, budget, and overall hair goals all play a part in choosing the right treatment,” says Rodriguez.
Keep in mind that hair-straightening products can disrupt the natural curl pattern, so consult your stylist on your longer-term hair goals before choosing one. “Heat styling is temporary, while smoothing treatments can loosen the curl and permanent chemical treatments can significantly alter the natural texture. If you love your curls, I recommend choosing a temporary option rather than permanently changing the pattern,” says Giannetos.
Pair your goals with current texture using Giannetos’s guide to the right treatment:
Curly: A smoothing treatment can reduce frizz while still maintaining some of your natural curl.
Dense curls: “I prefer a customized professional treatment that makes the hair more manageable without unnecessarily compromising the curl pattern,” says Giannetos.
Wavy: Wavy hair usually responds beautifully to a professional blowout or smoothing treatment, which can create a sleek finish while maintaining movement.
Fine: With fine hair, Giannetos prefers a gentler approach so you don’t lose body or volume. For additional length and volume, he suggests adding in extensions like Great Lengths, which can be styled seamlessly with your own hair.
For Rodriguez’s clients with fine or wavy, less-resistant textures, she recommends keratin treatments to help maintain density and body while smoothing the hair.
Thick: A smoothing treatment can be great for thick hair because it reduces frizz and makes hair much easier to style, but choose the formula based on the condition of your hair.
What at-home care do you need after a straightening treatment?
After a straightening treatment, at-home maintenance is fairly simple. “Hydration and heat protection are key. Use products formulated for treated hair, incorporate a weekly mask, minimize unnecessary heat, and be gentle when brushing—especially when the hair is wet,” says Giannetos.
For keratin treatments, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to help maintain the treatment and to help it last longer.
For permanent straightening treatments, use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to help care for the hair.
For both treatments, Rodriguez also recommends leave-in conditioners like John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner and heat protection like John Frieda Frizz Ease Extra Strength Serum to keep hair moisturized and for additional smoothing benefits.
“You should also comb the hair gently, avoid aggressively towel-drying, and thoroughly dry the hair with a blow dryer when wearing straight styles. Satin pillowcases or bonnets can also help protect the hair overnight,” Rodriguez concludes.