One thing Merit has done remarkably well since it launched in 2021 is craft a cohesive brand identity. I expect every single launch to adhere to certain characteristics: the vibe is easy breezy, stylishly low-key, and reminiscent of an effortless, clean girl aesthetic. When the brand launched its first fragrance, Retrospect, earlier this year, it fit that box perfectly. A soft skin scent with notes of vanilla and musk, it feels as familiar as a fragrance can get. Delicious, with thousands of five-star reviews, but definitely not divisive. Then the brand's second foray into fragrance landed on my desk—and I had to reevaluate Merit’s predictability.
Called New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum, the fragrance is everything I didn’t expect from the brand. It’s intense and dramatic, deep, moody, and shockingly sexy. Frankly, if I'd closed my eyes, I’d think this scent came from a brand like Frédéric Malle or Amouage, which isn’t a far stretch given that the expert perfumer is Dominique Ropion. (He famously developed Portrait of a Lady.) It’s giving more night-out-in-the-city than going-to-the-Alo-gym, and frankly, I’m not mad about that brand evolution.
To read my full, candid review, of Merit's newest perfume keep scrolling.
What Does Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum Smell Like?
Throw out any preconceived notions you have about what a Merit perfume would smell like. This is a pretty big departure for the brand. If Retrospect, the brand’s first fragrance, is light ivory cashmere, this one smells like deep plum velvet. Or if Retrospect is sunrise, this one will remind you of right after dusk. “New Wave is a completely different approach than Retrospect—where Retrospect started from a place of nostalgia and familiarity, New Wave is about power and future-thinking," Aila Morin, the CMO of Merit, exclusively tells MC. "Retrospect is more introverted in nature, while New Wave feels more powerful; they share a sophistication and confidence that comes across in different ways." On paper, it’s a fruity-meets-woody scent, but I actually find that it leans more gourmand musk—at least on my skin.
Here’s the scent breakdown:
Top Notes: Pink Pepper (fresh), Angelica Seed (peppery)
Heart: Orange Flower (citrus), Ylang-Ylang (floral), Honey Floral Accord (sweet)
Base: Benzoin (warm and sweet), Labdanum (amber), Patchouli Heart (earthy), Ambroxan (amber), Musk (skin-like), vanilla bean (sweet)
How Long Does the Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum Last?
Perhaps the most impressive character trait about this scent is its staying power. An extrait is inherently longer-lasting—it essentially means that a fragrance contains a higher amount of perfume oil than a traditional eau de parfum. Think: 20 to 40 percent as opposed to 10 to 20 percent. That often means that the price will be a hair steeper. That is not the case here; the new launch is the same exact price as Retrospect and objectively lasts me so much longer. If I spray it at 9am in the morning, I still notice a pretty strong staying power by 9pm at night.
Is the Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum Worth It?
If you’re looking for a statement fragrance, this is your guy. It’s powerful, seductive, and remarkably long-lasting for an under-$100 scent. On my skin, it settles into a woody gourmand (more heavy on the woody than the gourmand), and the citrus and floral notes are incredibly fleeting. That being said, it really does smell different on everyone, which is probably why my entire team has wildly different opinions on it (not everyone was a fan, but to be fair, fragrance is deeply personal by nature). It about as un-Merit as a fragrance can get, but ironically, that’s exactly what I like about it.
Why Trust Marie Claire
For more than 30 years, Marie Claire has been an internationally recognized destination for news, fashion and beauty trends, investigative packages, and more. When it comes to the products Marie Claire recommends, we take your faith in us seriously. Every product that we feature comes personally recommended by a Marie Claire writer or editor, or by an expert we’ve spoken to firsthand.