Anthony Gismondi: What to know about smoke taint for B.C. vintages

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Vintage 2026 is shaping up to be a year of mixed challenges across B.C. wine country. Most people will know that the Bald Range wildfire has effectively eliminated the use of most grapes grown in the Garnet Valley this year; the vines are mostly intact, by the way, and should be able to produce next year with little or no effect. But it is also true that smoke damage, or smoke taint as it is called in the wines, has spread much farther, into Summerland and north as far as Peachland, as well as across Okanagan Lake to sites on the Naramata Bench. U.S. wildfire smoke has also left some marks in the Osoyoos and Oliver areas in the south Okanagan.

To be clear, most vineyards outside those zones will not have experienced any smoke damage, and for those affected, many will be able to manage smaller amounts of smoke taint. Again, it is a wait-and-see proposition vineyard by vineyard. Don’t write off the year, especially given how many wineries are producing wines from so many other parts of the 200-kilometre Okanagan Valley and around the province. I have just returned from Vancouver Island, where they are enjoying an early harvest of high-quality fruit and expect to make some of their best wines ever.

Also keep in mind that many wineries work with vineyards far from their estates so that they will have access to smoke-free grapes for some of their normal production. Whatever the outcome, no wines currently in the market are affected by this year’s events. In fact, the 2026 reds would not normally be released for more than two years so, market-wise, there is plenty of wine from the 2022, 2023, and 2025 vintages, all of which were better-than-average years in quality. They should help minimize losses from the 2024 deep freeze and the 2026 wines affected by smoke.

It is a different story for small individual growers with vineyards in the affected areas. When they lose their crop, they have no other means of income. 2026 is just another year of uncertainty for many who have faced two short crops since 2020, a complete loss of the 2024 crop, and now, in 2026, after a highly promising spring and early summer, another complete loss in the Garnet Valley and Summerland areas.

That said, with wildfires seemingly part of every vintage, I’m seeing a different attitude toward wineries that constantly test, report, and, believe it or not, share their data with their neighbours. Many are routinely testing their grapes early, either as a preemptive measure to see where they stand or, in the worst cases, for insurance purposes. Either way, they deserve credit for taking action.

One thing that would really help consumers, cost very little, and perhaps increase retail sales dramatically is for the trade to be far more diligent about listing products complete with a vintage clearly included in the name and retail price. One of the worst perpetrators for not revealing the vintage of many of its products selling on its website is B.C. liquor stores. It’s unacceptable, given how much they ask of suppliers when they go through the onerous task of getting a listing and submitting umpteen pieces of information about the wine they want listed, including its vintage.

Yet most online retailers, private and public, conveniently skip the vintage, saying the annual turnover prevents them from knowing exactly which year they are selling. Somehow I bet they know which year they are buying before they pay for anything. On the plus side, displaying a vintage is likely to attract more buyers than it scares off.

Today I leave you with two local picks that are smoke-free, affordable, and widely available in government stores. The Haywire 2025 Chardonnay is a solid bet, with plenty of green apple, lemon and creamy lees to entertain you, and it’s on sale until Oct. 24 for $20.99.

If you are looking for a red wine, try the newly refreshed Frind 2025 Big Red, also on sale for $ 20.99 until Oct. 24. This juicy, soft grape blend is ready to drink and offers solid value for the price.

Maan Farms Blueberry 2025, Fraser Valley

$20 | 88/100

UPC: 626990150022

Blueberries seem like a natural ingredient for fruit wine. B.C. is the unofficial capital of blueberries, so supply is plentiful. The nose is unsurprisingly blueberry-like, with just a dusting of herbal, leafy notes. The palate is soft, sweet, tangy, and spicy, with more intense blueberry and a fresh, cleansing finish. It is fun to sip, but it also works in marinades, salad dressings, and sauces. Spicy dishes like chilli chicken wings are also a fine match. This one is a winner.

CedarCreek Estate Pinot Gris 2025, South Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley

$25 | 89/100

UPC: 776545502148

The 2025 Estate Gris is grown across vineyards in Naramata, East Kelowna, and the Black Sage Bench. Rather than a single-site expression, it offers a broad portrait of the valley. It opens with aromas of fresh pear, white peach, melon, and citrus. The palate is round yet lively, balancing ripe orchard fruit with bright acidity and a subtle mineral thread. Winemaker Andrés Pizarro says the goal is to express both the grape variety and what the Okanagan Valley can offer in a clean, uncomplicated, highly drinkable style. The slight style shift makes an already well-made wine even more approachable.

Sandhill Secco Chardonnay – Pinot Noir N/V, Okanagan Valley

$25 | 88/100

UPC: 058976503711

Sandhill’s inaugural Secco, produced by the Peller Group, blends 80 per cent Chardonnay and 20 per cent Pinot Noir. Bright straw in colour, it has abundant, fine, persistent bubbles, with green apple and lemon carrying through to the palate. Fresh and lean, it is best served as a food-friendly apéritif alongside freshly shucked oysters, vegetable gyoza, or warm brie. Ready to drink, it is made in the Prosecco style using the Charmat tank method.

Lunessence Pinot Noir Estate Single Vineyard 2025, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley

$34.99 | 89/100

UPC: 793588413033

This Summerland Bench Estate Single Vineyard was farmed organically and is certified organic. It is also wild-fermented in neutral oak, and since 2023 the ageing has shifted to seven months in neutral French barrels with no new oak. The difference is immediate. Cleaner and fresher, there is a delicacy that matches its cool mid-valley location in Garnet Valley. Pleasant red cherry and plum are easy to sip and linear across the palate. Drink or hold. Ready to drink alongside lighter fare.

Solvero Pinot Noir 2023, Garnet Valley, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley

$35 | 90/100

UPC: 627987248401

This young Summerland Pinot Noir comes from the Garnet Valley and Kozuki Family vineyards. It displays a dark cherry hue with subtle notes of blackberry and raspberry, complemented by vibrant acidity. The flavour is an intriguing mix of savoury cherry and a spicy blend of soy, balsamic, ginger, and dried desert herbs, underscored by a balanced, silky texture through the finish. Rich and powerful enough to pair with larger dishes like duck, mushroom risotto, or cedar plank salmon.

Black Market Orange 2025, Okanagan Valley

$26 | 89/100

UPC: 626990461906

The Black Market Orange is a pleasant surprise. Gewürztraminer is fermented with indigenous yeast and macerated on skins for 12 days, leaving it aromatic with floral orange blossoms and rose petals, plus sweet tropical notes like litchi and honey. The attack is full-flavoured, with luscious notes of apricot and orange marmalade, streaked with candied ginger and savoury dessert scrub. It’s not overly sweet, but it has enough ripeness to pair with spicier dishes — a takeout star.

Escorihuela 1884 Syrah Finca E.G. 2023, Agrelo District, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

$19.99 | 88/100

UPC: 7790415130258

This wine has been a consistent entry-level Syrah bargain for years. The fruit comes from Agrelo, a quality Argentine region, and the style is fresh and juicy. Look for a dry, slightly floral nose with black fruit. The palate is simple and direct, with meaty, dark cherry, anise and a dusting of spice. It’s fresh, approachable, and perfect with mid-week grilled meat or vegetables.

Come for the food and stay for the movement at Canada’s premier celebration of women in food and beverage. Yes Shef is back on Wednesday, Nov. 18, from 5:30-9:30 p.m. at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel. Hosted by Worth Association, Yes Shef brings together acclaimed chefs, emerging culinary talent, hospitality leaders, and passionate food lovers for an evening of exceptional cuisine, meaningful connection, and lasting impact. Through mentorship, community, and giving back, Yes Shef elevates women in hospitality while creating opportunities for the next generation of industry leaders. Every dish tells a story, every chef inspires a student, and every guest helps build a more inclusive future for hospitality. Your ticket includes unlimited tastings from more than 15 chefs, sommeliers, brewers, and mixologists; live entertainment; participation in the People’s Choice Award voting; and access to a silent auction and other incredible prize opportunities. General Admission tickets are $220. This is a cocktail-style reception with limited seating. The event is 19+. Tickets are non-refundable but transferable.

On Tuesday, Nov. 3, Provence Marinaside looks east for A Nova Scotian Bluenoser, a five-course dinner pairing Nova Scotia flavours and stories with wines from Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards. Host Rachel Lightfoot, the winery’s viticulturist, will introduce the family-owned Annapolis Valley estate, whose agricultural roots span eight generations. Certified organic and biodynamic, Lightfoot & Wolfville produces small quantities of expressive cool-climate wines from vineyards overlooking the Minas Basin, shaped by the Bay of Fundy’s extraordinary tides and cool breezes. The evening opens with Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut 2020, followed by East Coast oysters, lobster rolls with warm potato salad, Digby scallops, chicken ballotine, and classic Nova Scotian blueberry grunt. Each course is paired with a wine that reflects the winery and its landscape. Tickets are $145 via OpenTable.