The Messolonghi lagoons, the largest in Greece, turn a weekend in Messolonghi into a family trip of birdwatching, cycling and history.
Pack cameras, binoculars and bikes, because that is the basic kit for a family visit to the capital of Aetolia-Acarnania.
Italians named the town mezzo-laghi since it sits between lagoons. It ranks among the most beautiful weekend escapes close to Athens, in any season.
Why the Messolonghi lagoons suit families
The Messolonghi lagoons surround a town that is safe for children and full of activities. Since the streets are completely flat, bikes have become the main way to get around.
Strabo called these waters Kynia limni, while Homer described them as Perikallea. Locals prefer the name Messolonghi–Aitoliko lagoons, among the most important wetlands in Europe.
Over time, the deltas of the Evinos and Acheloos rivers shaped them. Today they form a national park of 61,600 hectares, including 19,000 hectares of pure wetland.
The Ramsar Convention has protected the Messolonghi lagoons since 1971, and they also belong to the Natura 2000 network. At least 280 bird species shelter here, as well as 23 reptile species and nesting loggerhead turtles.
A walk through the Holy City
Past the stone gate, Greek flags fly everywhere in a town many call the Holy City. No other place is so closely tied to the Revolution of 1821.
Tell the children about the heroic Exodus of April 1826. Under siege by the forces of Ibrahim and Kiutahi, the people broke out, but thousands died or fell captive.
Later, that sacrifice inspired the poet Dionysios Solomos. Today the Garden of Heroes, open from 9 am to 5 pm, tells the story.
Governor Ioannis Kapodistrias ordered its creation in 1830, although it took its present form in 1930. Inside the Garden of Heroes, children will find 50 monuments and a mound for the unnamed heroes of the Exodus.
Busts honour Markos Botsaris, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Solomos and Lord Byron, who died here in 1824. Cannons on the wall will thrill young visitors, though only a small section survives, rebuilt under King Otto in 1838.
Tourlida, stilt huts and salt
Begin exploring the Messolonghi lagoons at Tourlida, an islet linked to town by a 5-kilometre road and cycle path. Its wooden jetties hold gaites, the traditional keel-less boats.
Fishermen’s wooden huts on pointed stilts, called pelades, also stand in the water and make wonderful photos. Between the islets, reed traps hold small fish until they grow.
Tourlida has small beaches as well, and locals take mud baths because the clay has a reputation for healing. At the end of the road lies the Black Salt Pan, where salt rises in dark hills.
If you come in the morning, visit the Salt Museum, the only one in Greece. Its 1946 building once housed salt-pan workers, while a collection of 1,500 salt cellars crowns the visit.
For generations, the Messolonghi lagoons have ranked among the biggest natural fish-producing areas in Greece. Grey mullet roe gives the famous avgotaracho, a Protected Designation of Origin product.
In Aitoliko, a workshop shows children how makers salt it with afrina and coat it in natural wax. Later, try it in a fish taverna with eel and lagoon prawns.
Boats, kayaks and birdwatching
Next, see the Messolonghi lagoons up close by boat. The non-profit Messolonghi by locals runs eco-tours in a traditional boat with a guide.
Along the way, the islets of Tourlida, Komma, Marmarou, Plostaina, Prokopanistos and Schoinias dot the water. Fishermen around them will describe their traditional fishing methods.
In addition, the group offers tours for photography and stargazing. Families can also hire a canoe or kayak, since the town even hosts a national championship in the sport.
For more adventure, the Messolonghi aero club flies two-seater planes with experienced pilots. Each flight lasts 30 to 40 minutes.
Patient children can photograph birds from the reed beds, embankments or observation hides. Of the 280 species in the Messolonghi lagoons, 60 enjoy protection.
More than 40,000 ducks and waterbirds gather here, including Dalmatian pelicans, storks and flamingos. Cormorants and raptors such as eagles also hunt here, so follow the rules: no shouting, no clapping and stay hidden.
Museums, salt mountains and Aitoliko
Messolonghi is the birthplace of poet Kostis Palamas and of five Greek prime ministers. Visit his house and the 1850 home of the Trikoupis family, which produced Spyridon and Charilaos Trikoupis.
Kids enjoy the Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum, which uses multimedia to display 1,200 finds. Similarly, the Museum of History and Art shows paintings of the siege, while two rooms honour Byron.
On the old road to Aitoliko, salt mountains up to 15 metres high glitter like snow. In particular, the salt pans of the Messolonghi lagoons produce more salt than anywhere else in Greece.
Aitoliko, often called little Venice, sits on an islet in the water. During the mid-19th century, it was a trading centre with its own fleet.
Two multi-arched stone bridges from the late 19th century link it to the mainland. See the Vaso Katraki Engraving Centre and Museum, then the folklore museum and Limanaki Park.
Finally, end your trip around the Messolonghi lagoons with sunset on the southern side of Aitoliko.
Source: travel.gr
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