What it’s really like to ski in Verbier as a Black woman in a space we’re rarely welcomed in

As I clicked into my clunky boots and skis for the first time and stared ahead at the slope, everything felt so foreign to me. The last few weeks were a blur of researching ski passes and equipment, getting my head around piste colours and ski runs. It’s not that I had decided never to ski before — I’d simply never had the opportunity to.

A common misconception is that Black people don’t enjoy outdoor activities, often cited as the reason for low participation in skiing and snowboarding. But there is more to it than that: snow sports are often passed down through generations and considered a luxury sport. Given that few Black families historically grew up in ski culture, many of us just aren’t familiar with that world. Sport England's 2022 figures show that white participants dominate skiing, while Black participation rates were too low to measure. Without representation, it can be difficult to see yourself on the slopes.

Verbier was the right place to begin. Part of Les 4 Vallées, the largest ski area in Switzerland, it is only 1 hour 40 minutes from London to Geneva, followed by a 1 hour 45 minute train connection. Snow conditions are reliable, while the village's architectural charm kept me in awe off the slopes. When I did make it to the top, Mont Blanc was in sight.

Apart from hearing horror stories of breaking a limb, I wasn’t particularly worried about skiing. I’d seen a few Black-owned ski groups on social media keeping the vibes going from morning until après ski – leaving me equal parts excited and nervous. Packing for Verbier made me realise that inaccessibility doesn’t just come from not being exposed to skiing as a child, but also down to equipment and clothing. It really adds up. Spending most of my time in a sunny climate, I decided to rent my gear from Cirkel Supply, which proved to be a godsend. I chose my outfit online and arrived at the chalet to find my mid and outer layers already waiting.

I learned about the ‘pizza’ technique and turning during my first lesson with Alpinemojo. Previous roller skating sessions served me well in the beginning: bracing my core, unlocking my knees and leaning forward down the Les Esserts slope. I felt victorious on day one without a single fall, but was quickly humbled during my session with Adrenaline. After many tumbles, I developed a mental block and couldn’t quite bounce back. I didn’t realise this was normal until my instructor gave me a pep talk. He had seen it many times before, but to me it was the worst feeling. I quickly learned that while Verbier is not the easiest place to learn to ski, I improved faster there than I would have on gentler slopes.

As a Black woman, I was aware that there weren’t many other people who looked like me around, but it never impacted my trip. Conversations with strangers were easy and warm, whether at the mountain restaurants or in the village. Similar to Antarctica, I was hypervisible on the slopes, so much so that a family approached me at Le SPA W Verbier, having spotted me learning to ski the day before. Whether relaxing at Chalet Kitsalano or ordering oysters by a piste at Le Dahu, I wasn’t thinking about how my presence was perceived by others. I was just as excited to enjoy the area as I was clipping into my skis.

As I put on my layers for the final time, I started to think about how it’s not just the skiing that can feel exclusive – language is also key to feeling part of a group. A week in Verbier unlocked a world of skiing memes, insider language and humour I now understand. I have a new entry point into conversations with people who ski through a shared experience. I also now understand that questioning everything on the slopes is not as uncommon as I thought; it’s the rite of passage. And perhaps one day, skiing will be something we can pass down.

Where to stay in Verbier

Chalet Kitsalano

Part of Verbier Exclusive's collection of 24 catered and self-catered properties, Chalet Kitsalano accommodates up to 10 guests in five en-suite bedrooms across three floors. The interiors balance contemporary Alpine design – dark marble fireplace, warm woods and statement lighting – with a balcony overlooking Verbier’s mountains. Amenities include a gym, an outdoor hot tub, a boot room with boot warmers, and 24-hour chauffeur service. Yoga and reflexology are available on request. The in-house chef personalises every meal to the group’s tastes, so expect fine-dining twists on your favourite dishes, as well as new flavours, including venison with smoked potato, beetroot, cherry and rosemary.

Things to do in Verbier

Paragliding

Tandem flights with Verbier Summits last between 20 and 35 minutes depending on wind conditions, soaring high above the Alps with panoramic views. Those coming directly from the pistes can take off on their skis. The launch point sits below the popular Ice Cube bar.

Website: verbiersummits.com

Dog Sledding

Head to Les Ruinettes for a 5km sledge ride with Aline Luisier and her 16 huskies, drawn by ten dogs through panoramic Alpine scenery. You'll also get the chance to meet the dogs up close and take pictures.

Website: verbier4vallees.ch

Spa day at Le SPA W Verbier

Le SPA W Verbier offers a full-day pass including two heated pools, a jacuzzi, a Himalayan salt sauna, steam rooms and cocktail service right in the wet area. No hotel stay required.

Address: W Verbier, Rue de Médran 70, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland
Website: spa-wverbier.com

Where to eat in Verbier

Le Farinet

One of Verbier's most beloved après-ski institutions offers two experiences under one roof. On the quieter side, expect dim lighting, oysters and cocktails like the Blushing Alps: hibiscus-infused pisco, and elderflower liqueur infused with rosemary syrup and lemon soda. Venture to the other side for singalongs, live music and a packed crowd on their feet. Get there early as the queues are long.

Address: Le Farinet, Pl. Centrale 6, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland
Website: hotelfarinet.com

Le Grenier

Inside the 5-star rustic Le Chalet d’Adrien, Le Grenier serves classic Alpine cuisine, including raclette, slow-cooked stews, and fresh pasta. Order the beef and poultry braserade, grilled at your table.

Address: Restaurant le Grenier Verbier, Rte des Creux 91, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland
Website: chalet-adrien.com

Igloo du Mont Fort

At 3,330 metres, the Igloo at Mont Fort is the highest fondue in Europe. Views stretch across more than 110 peaks, including the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. No booking is required, and advanced skiers can ski down after eating.

Address: Igloo du Mont-Fort, Mont Fort, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland
Website: verbier4vallees.ch