Taste Kolkata’s Tangra-style Chinese food at Chao in Kochi

The Tangra special chilli chicken at Chao aka Tangra Chinese Eating Room, Panampilly Nagar, has a problem. That first bite is unsettling; it comes with the realisation that chilli chicken will never be the same. The juicy bite-sized pieces of chicken have a hint of mild smokiness, making it different from most Indo-Chinese versions, which usually get their flavour from a medley of sauces. Almost everything on the menu is either new to the city or is different from what we expect.

Chao is Vijay Antony Felix’s ode to the Chinese food he grew up eating in Kolkata: “I grew up eating this food, and I wanted to bring it to Kochi. I wanted people to experience it!” Kolkata is known for its unique Tangra-style Chinese food, popularised by members of the Chinese community, who made the city their home for more than a couple of centuries. Tangra is one of Kolkata’s Chinatowns, with its concentration of the Chinese population, immigrants who came to work at tanneries.  

Though very few people of Chinese heritage remain, especially in the food business, Tangra Chinese has its committed fans like Vijay, who want to introduce it to other cities. An engineer by profession, Vijay says he is an entrepreneur with a passion for food and beverages, and that commitment shows in how he has put Chao together.

Located on the main avenue in Panampilly Nagar, Chao is bustling at lunchtime. The walls of this compact space wear the ubiquitous Chinese-restaurant red, adding to the distinct Chinese-y vibe. The building’s white facade has a red, fine-line dragon painted on it. One of the meanings of chao, in Chinese, is stir-fry or sauté.

The seating might seem too close for some, but it works because it adds a warm sense of community, made comforting by the buzz of conversation that hangs in the air. Though it has been barely more than two months, Vijay confesses, the response far exceeds his expectations, especially because it is not the regular Chinese food that one is used to. And he is not complaining.

We dive straight into the food with the clear wonton soup. It is light and flavourful, and its simplicity easily qualifies as comfort food. Next come the starters — first up is Hakka paneer, slim squares of lightly toasted/fried paneer tossed with coriander and thinly sliced chilli. The chilli and coriander combination cannot disappoint the desi palate. Then there is honey crispy chilli beef, strips of beef — spicy with a hint of sweetness in parts. Although a starter, it works well with the very pale-looking Cantonese noodles, which looks bland. But if you are one of those people who like to taste your veggies in your noodles, this is for you. 

You don’t expect coriander and green chilli in Chinese food, but they feature in Tangra-style cooking. But it is the Indian influence on the cuisine that incorporates elements of local cooking. For paneer sceptics, this will be a new experience, especially the bite of the green chillies. “Rather than overdo the sauces, we use a lot of chillies for the spice,” Vijay says. Another popular dish is the string beans with minced pork.

A word on the beverages served, apart from other aerated drinks. There is kombucha, and then there is the malted bevvie, which is non-alcoholic, and is a must-try. It is quiet like beer.

As we scoop the burnt garlic fried rice, with a surfeit of fried garlic, and Tangra kungpao chicken onto our plates, Vijay tells us about the ‘Chinese’ Kali temple of Tangra, pointing to a photograph on the wall behind, and how Chinese vegetarian dishes are offered as bhog. Mounted alongside on the wall is a bottle of Pou Chong sauce made locally in Tangra. The kitchen staff is from Kolkata, and the menu is the result of Vijay’s research, which involved visiting Chinese restaurants in Kolkata. That said, he confesses the recipes are inspired by some of the fare.

The menu is rather expansive; vegetarians have been given due consideration, apart from a considerable seafood section.

The spread was filling, and dessert impossible. But the offerings are tempting — darsaan (honey noodles) with vanilla ice cream, whisky chocolate tart with vanilla ice cream, and ice cream bars. The darsaan and ice cream will have to wait for another day.

Although a couple of months old, it might be prudent to get reservations before walking in.

A disclaimer: If you go in expecting familiar fare, you are in for a surprise. The Tangra style is distinct and different, though most Indian-Chinese fare originated there.