Best of Beauty
Everything you need to know about our Clean Standard—and how we got there.
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Arrow Radisch
In the world of beauty, the word “clean” has long been murky. When it's applied to the serums and shampoos that we use every day, it can mean very different things to different people (and different brands and different retailers). That's why we've taken it upon ourselves to analyze the research, talk to experts (dermatologists, chemists), and determine which ingredients we think a "clean" beauty product should not contain. There are those that have been studied for potential health risks (phthalates), those that could be contaminated with a harmful substance, and others that are just potentially irritating to some (certain sulfates).
Every year, new research emerges, and the beauty industry makes certain shifts—so we update our standard along with it. When we first announced these guidelines in 2019, they included 15 ingredient categories. Seven years later, the list is down to 10—we’ve removed PEGs, formaldehyde, triclosan, microbeads, and hydroquinone because they are no longer used in over-the-counter products.
Big question marks certainly remain in this category. And with Google searches for clean beauty peaking in April 2026 (more than double those in April 2022), we're going to keep looking for answers. We can't resolve all the unknowns and confusion in this area, but we can be very clear about one thing: Any product that bears the Allure Clean Best of Beauty seal is a Best of Beauty winner that meets the Allure Clean Standard, meaning it's free of these 10 ingredient classes.
Here's exactly what they are and why some people are choosing to avoid them.
The Ingredients
Chemical filters (such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate)
What they are: Active ingredients that absorb UV rays to protect skin from their harmful effects (an alternative to “physical” or “mineral” sunscreens, which are also made in a lab, but do their job by both absorbing and reflecting UV rays).
Why some people choose to avoid them: In September 2021, the FDA published an infographic with suggested new monograph updates on sunscreen safety and effectiveness, proposing that there's not enough data on 12 of its permitted chemical sunscreen agents to determine that they're generally recognized as safe and effective for humans. (They also proposed that two ingredients—aminobenzoic acid, or PABA, and trolamine salicylate—are not safe and effective for use in sunscreen. In September 2026, the FDA issued a final administrative order to ban them—but both have been phased out and were already unlikely to be found in any sunscreen formulas.)
Five years later, the FDA says that there is still not enough safety data on those dozen ingredients to declare them as being generally recognized as safe and effective for humans. But this year, organic chemical filter Bemotrizinol (or BEMT) joined the FDA’s list of permitted sunscreen active ingredients, and it was deemed safe and recommended for use on adults and children ages six months and older. (BEMT is the first sunscreen filter to be approved by the FDA in the US in over 20 years.)
In January 2020, a small, clinical study conducted by the FDA, was published in JAMA and found that some chemical sunscreen filters—even after just a single application—did more than just sit on the skin and could enter the bloodstream. It also found something potentially problematic: The concentration of these chemicals in the blood was higher than the safety threshold set by the FDA.
Bemotrizinol, however, was designed to be a larger-sized molecule to minimize skin penetration, according to cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. “If people have concerns about some of the other sunscreens and skin penetration, this molecule is really an improvement on that,” she says. It's important to note, though, that there's no proof that other chemical filters are dangerous to humans—there just isn't sufficient proof that they're safe either, and more studies are needed. In the meantime, no one should refrain from using sunscreen, which is extremely well-proven to cause cancer.
You might not want to wear some chemical formulas in the ocean, though: In 2021, the state of Hawaii banned the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate because they're suspected to damage coral reefs and other marine organisms. Keep in mind that, when purchasing sunscreen, "reef-safe" and "ocean-safe" claims are not regulated, but a recently introduced bill (H. R. 4800) is encouraging the FDA to develop standards for those labels. In the meantime, if you're concerned, use sunscreens containing titanium dioxide or non-nano (meaning bigger than 100 nanometers) zinc oxide, ingredients the FDA has already proposed as “Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective.”
Parabens
What they are: A family of chemicals (including butyl-, methyl-, ethyl-, and propylparaben) used as preservatives to extend beauty products’ shelf life by keeping them bacteria- and mold-free for longer.
Why some people choose to avoid them: Back in 2014, researchers found that some parabens —which are moderately absorbed through the skin—could have estrogen-mimicking properties, though they are very weak. Estrogenicity, in general, has been linked to breast cancer proliferation; however, there are many things that have estrogenic properties and are not considered risky, so it’s difficult to make the association of parabens with breast cancer risk. Scientists have also found parabens in noncancerous breast tissue, but it wasn’t clear that these came from cosmetics, as they’re also found in food. “With any chemical in a product—makeup or juice or [food]— we have a very hard time measuring how much you're actually exposed to. Everybody uses these products a little differently, and they metabolize them differently,” Timothy Rebbeck, PhD, a professor of cancer prevention at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and the Harvard TH Chan School of Public Health, told Allure in 2024.
In the years since that 2014 study, consumer concerns led many companies to voluntarily remove parabens from their products. Some states have even taken action over these concerns: California and Maryland have banned both isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben from cosmetics. But despite the growing unease around the use of parabens in cosmetics, the FDA says there’s no conclusive evidence that the use of cosmetics that contain parabens has “an effect on human health.”
And amid several recent incidents of mold in cosmetics, many chemists are growing concerned about the weakness of preservative systems found in some beauty products today. “The industry removed them for marketing reasons, not safety reasons,” cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski told Allure in 2024. But still, many consumers have been sufficiently scared and still want to avoid them, even if replacement preservatives—like a blend of sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, or benzyl alcohol—have far less safety data behind them than parabens.
Phthalates
What they are: Chemicals used to help make plastics (like those found in nail polish, hairspray, cleansers, and shampoos) more flexible and durable. They are also often used to stabilize fragrance in products and are usually labeled as “Fragrance” or “Flavor.” Exposure to phthalates can also come from other sources, like product packaging.
Why some people choose to avoid them: Research suggests phthalates could be linked to reproductive issues, as they are known to be endocrine disruptors (substances that interfere with the body’s natural hormones). A 2021 report by the National Toxicology Program listed diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) in the “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen” group. However, diethyl phthalate (DEP), the phthalate used in cosmetics, does not appear on the list.
One of the things researchers are most concerned about now is phthalate exposure in pregnant women. In a 2022 pooled study, published in JAMA Pediatrics, researchers found that women with higher concentrations of urinary biomarkers of common phthalates (some of which are used in personal-care products) were associated with “greater odds of delivering preterm.” Additionally, a 2019 study saw an association between exposure to certain phthalates prenatally and during early childhood and decreased motor scores in preteens, although more studies are needed to confirm that phthalates contributed to it.
Many companies have removed phthalates from most cosmetics, as well as other products, like toys, because of their potential risks. In the EU, some phthalates have even been banned in cosmetics altogether. And in the U.S., “I'd say overall exposure would be low today; largely, phthalates have been removed from cosmetic products,” says Dobos. “I don't think you'd see phthalates as an intentional ingredient, like added into a shampoo, but they could appear as a component in fragrance.”
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
What they are: Cleansers that trap oil-based dirt so it can be rinsed away from skin or hair with water. They can also create foaming in shampoos, toothpastes, and soaps.
Why some people choose to avoid them: In 1998, the American Cancer Society published a story “debunking the myth” that sulfates are known to cause cancer. Though the National Toxicology Program has identified carcinogenic hazards involving some compounds that contain sulfates—these aren't the ones that you would find in a beauty product. The worst these cleansers could do is irritate and dry skin, possibly trigger canker sores, and potentially strip dye molecules from hair. And even those issues are relatively rare with regular day-to-day consumer use.
“A lot of this concern has come from exaggerated use conditions in studies,” says Dobos. “You're putting it on, you're lathering it up, and you're rinsing it off. Your exposure to these materials is actually very transient.”
If you have sensitive skin or want to extend the time between dyeing your hair, though, there are plenty of sulfate-free shampoos, facial cleansers, and toothpastes available from both drugstore and prestige brands. They probably won’t produce the same lather as formulas that contain sulfates, but you’ll be just as clean when you rinse off.
Cyclic Silicones (cyclomethicone and cyclosiloxanes)
What they are: Slippery, waterproof chemicals, sometimes derived from silica, that can be found in a form of sand. They're used in primers, foundations, and hair serums for a slick application. Since they’re volatile chemicals, they tend to evaporate, leaving a silky finish after drying. There are many variations of silicones, but the two important categories used in beauty products are linear (like dimethicone) and cyclic (like cyclomethicone and cyclosiloxanes).
Why some people choose to avoid them: Cyclic silicones might be harmful to the environment. Starting in 2020, the EU limited the concentration of cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) in wash-off cosmetics to 0.1% (which the EU Commission said ensures that all intentional use of the ingredients will stop) over concerns that they can accumulate in the water supply. And in 2026, another EU restriction was applied to leave-on cosmetics for dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6).
In terms of human safety, cosmetic-grade silicones—whether cyclic or linear—are safe to put on your skin and hair. In fact, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)'s website suggests that sunscreens containing silicones might be a good alternative for people with rosacea who tend to get irritated skin after application.
Aluminum salts in antiperspirants
What they are: A type of salt used to temporarily plug sweat glands. These include aluminum sulfate, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, and aluminum zirconium.
Why some people choose to avoid them: There was a concern in the past that aluminum-based compounds could cause breast cancer because, according to some studies, breast cancers more commonly develop in the part of the breast nearest the armpit. However, according to the American Cancer Society, “there's very little scientific evidence” to support the claim that antiperspirants cause breast cancer. Recent research continues to debunk that claim. (There’s a hypothesis that cancer develops in this area because of the high proportion of breast tissue there.)
A few studies found high levels of aluminum in people with Alzheimer’s brains, but no causal relationship has been proven. Experts do, however, cite some concern for irritation from antiperspirants among those with sensitive skin. “If there is a side effect, I would see an eczema-like reaction or skin irritation, but we can't prove that those are from the salt,” says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD.
Aluminum-free deodorants are an alternative for scent protection for those sensitive to antiperspirants, though they do not prevent wetness.
Talc
What it is: A mineral used in eye shadows and face powders to absorb moisture and prevent caking.
Why some people choose to avoid it: The research on whether talc itself is cancerous has been mixed, though it can be contaminated with asbestos—a known carcinogen. Several studies have shown a possible link between regular exposure to talc and ovarian and endometrial cancers in certain groups. There have been thousands of lawsuits against Johnson & Johnson based on plaintiff claims that the company’s talc products caused cancer. Though the company has denied these claims, in July 2026, it proposed a $5.5 billion settlement payment for roughly 76,000 cases.
The FDA occasionally does voluntary spot tests of talc-based cosmetics for asbestos and investigates reports of contamination. However, other than spot-testing, the FDA is still assessing how to standardize testing methods for identifying asbestos—a fact that set social media aflame in 2025 when consumers criticized the department for allegedly ending mandatory testing. The truth is that the FDA never mandated this kind of testing to begin with. “The proposed rule aimed to close this gap by making testing mandatory and uniform,” Dobos told Allure this year.
Due to mounting concerns over possible asbestos contamination, multiple brands have also voluntarily recalled talc-based products and/or removed the ingredient altogether, replacing it with alternatives such as cornstarch, mica, and kaolin clay.
Mineral oil (liquid paraffin)
What it is: A colorless, odorless liquid moisturizing agent distilled from a mineral source such as petroleum.
Why some people choose to avoid it: Untreated or lightly treated mineral oils are known carcinogens, and there is a broader concern that any mineral oil could be contaminated with carcinogenic compounds such as 1,4-dioxane. A big but here, though: There’s no evidence that the trace amounts of these compounds that could be found in the ultra-refined mineral oil used in cosmetics is unsafe. In recent skin-absorption studies, the FDA found that 1,4-dioxane can penetrate the skin in trace amounts, especially when applied as a lotion. But again, at these small amounts, it is still not considered harmful.
Petrolatum (petroleum jelly, white petrolatum)
What it is: a.k.a. petroleum jelly, a byproduct of the refining process of crude oil. It’s a skin protectant that helps retain moisture.
Why some people choose to avoid it: Chemicals in crude oil called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are reasonably anticipated to be human carcinogens. They are supposed to be removed, however, during the refining process that produces the petrolatum that's used in cosmetics.
When used topically, petroleum jelly doesn’t clog pores, but according to the AAD, when used on acne-prone skin, it could lead to breakouts.
Toluene
What it is: A solvent used in nail products, including polish and removers (usually listed as methylbenzene, phenylmethane, and toluol on the ingredient list).
Why some people choose to avoid it: Toluene fumes can be inhaled, and liquid toluene can be absorbed through damaged skin. While typically flushed out within a day, a small amount can build up in fat tissue with daily exposure. Toluene doesn’t appear on the National Toxicology Program’s list of carcinogens, but the Center for Disease Control (CDC) says exposure can cause nausea, tiredness, and drunken-type actions.
Although there have been reports of miscarriages among workers who are frequently exposed to toluene, among other substances, according to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), there is currently not enough evidence to suggest a causal relationship. Still, most brands have phased toluene out of their formulas.
The Absorption Question
There's been a lot of ink spilled about what happens after we use a serum or foundation (aside from the smoother or more even skin part): “Sixty percent of what you put on your skin is absorbed by your body!” “Chemicals from beauty products soak into your bloodstream!” Here is the truth, as far as we know it:
Yes, the beauty products that you use can be absorbed by your body to some degree, though often only on a surface level. “Our skin is not an impenetrable barrier. But it really is an effective barrier,” says Dobos. “If the skin were really highly permeable to everything we encountered, we'd have far greater health risks from everything we're exposed to every day.”
It’s only the smallest molecules—especially those that are fat-soluble or ingredients that are encapsulated—that can reach the bloodstream. Many ingredients on this list have been found in the bloodstream, but they could’ve gotten there by other exposure methods, like ingestion or inhalation.
While having ingredients from your beauty products coursing through your veins doesn't sound great, the mere fact that a chemical shows up in your blood (or urine) does not mean it's causing any harm to your body. “The dose makes the poison is kind of that central theme of toxicology,” says Dobos. “So an ingredient that might cause harm under some conditions doesn't mean it poses a meaningful risk when it's in a cosmetic product.”
Frequency of use, product formulation, and mode of application can all play into the potential effects of cosmetic ingredients. Some may be toxic at certain levels, but there are a lot of unknowns.
Additional reporting by Arietta Hallock, Samantha He, and Sarah Kinonen.
More on Best of Beauty:
- See the 2026 Beauty of Beauty Clean Winners
- Shop All 2026 Best of Beauty Winners Here
- How to Submit Your Beauty Product for Best of Beauty 2027
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