Blissfully tranquil and cut off from the rest of the world, the palm-strewn islands of the Maldives have long been held up as the ultimate winter escape serving the sun-deprived and the super-rich. I’ve stayed at Kate Moss’s favourite spot, and Madonna’s. I’ve been north and south, ultra-luxe and no-frills, clocking up more than 25 islands over the past 10 years. But with so many resorts scattered across more than 20 atolls, the choice can feel overwhelming. Read on for our guide on how to book a resort that's right for you.
Things to consider
Who are you travelling with?
This destination is not just for honeymooners or couples, in fact you'll find quite the opposite – there are families everywhere. The Maldives is superb for children: due to the resorts being restricted to individual islands (with only the hotel on the sand) it's extremely safe, the often shallow waters surrounding them are mostly calm and perfect for paddling and nearly all of the islands have fabulous children's facilities and kids' clubs. In fact, if you are looking for total grown-up peace, it's best to book an adults-only island. There are actually only a handful of them; our recommendation would be Komandoo as it's truly child-free with a policy of no guests under 18.
Location
A key thing to remember when considering the total cost of your holiday is the location of your chosen resort to Malé airport. The closer you are to Malé the cheaper and faster your transfer (a speedboat). However, this also means that you are much less likely to experience the splendid isolation that the area is famous for, as the islands near the airport are often in sight of each other (and there's a lot of construction, too). A seaplane transfer is required for atolls further away, which although expensive is often part of the once-in-a-lifetime feeling – zooming across the scattered discs of sand is a true joy.
Accommodation
When it comes to room rates, all-inclusive may seem more expensive, but it probably isn’t; individual bills at these resorts really can add up so don't dismiss it. Lastly, you need to decide if you’re a beach or over-water villa person. Over-water villas are great for those that love a swim any time of day – and they’re even better if you’re on a house reef. I prefer a beach villa because not only do they tend to be cheaper, but what’s better than stepping directly from your bedroom onto your own patch of pristine beach? Especially first thing in the morning when it’s just you, the sunrise and a solitary heron.
Finally, don’t assume that it’s beyond your price range: there are more affordable options to be found. So whether you’re yearning for rustic simplicity or something outrageously over the top, we’ve narrowed the options into three categories – one for every budget.
Affordable
Summer Island Maldives, North Malé Atoll
There’s an argument that all the islands in the Maldives are essentially the same; what you’re paying for is the bells and whistles – and this resort does little to dispel the theory. Summer Island is bright and breezy and has all the qualities required for a laid-back tropical blow-out: overwater villas, palm-studded beaches, feet-in-the-sand restaurants, frozen daiquiris, watersports… but at a fraction of the price.
How to book it: TUI offers seven nights from £1,601pp half board including speedboat transfers (tui.co.uk).
Sail around the islands
Prefer to keep moving? Small group adventure specialist, G Adventures, offers island-hopping trips around the archipelago aboard a traditional wooden dhoni (sailboat). With a maximum of 14 guests, days are spent snorkelling coral reefs, basking on remote sandbars, sipping juice from coconuts and playing chequers with the locals. Heads up: sleeping quarters are cramped but the wide open seas more than make up for it. Each night a chef grills fresh local seafood under the stars.
How to book it: G Adventures (gadventures.com) offers six nights from £1,649 per person including meals and airport transfers.
Luxury
Cora Cora, Raa Atoll
‘Joyful’ is the word I’d use to describe colourful Cora Cora – and ‘buzzy’. It’s all-singing, all-dancing and all-inclusive. Paradise with personality, if you like. When supping cocktails, snorkelling and spa-ing gets old, there’s culture to discover: a preserved archaeological site sits at the heart of the island shaded by ancient banyans, where the remains of a mosque, bathing pools and a traditional house offer a glimpse into the past.
How to book it: Simply Maldives (simplymaldives.co.uk) offers a seven-night stay from £3,350 per person all-inclusive including flights and seaplane transfers.
Constance Moofushi
A pinprick island, 30 minutes by seaplane from Malé, this is a great choice if you like your hotels on the boutique side. One of the prettiest I’ve visited, it has a down-to-earth Crusoe-chic aesthetic with thatched villas, rope hammocks and plenty of natural textures. There’s spectacular diving (it’s on a manta ray migration route), but it’s the quality of the food and flawless service that really wow. With just two restaurants, the choice is refreshingly straight-forward: one serves a rotation of international buffets, the other is à la carte and offers dishes such as filet mignon and lobster in a sublime beachside setting. An impressive wine list adds to the understated elegance.
© Bamba Sourang
How to book it: Constance Moofushi (constancehotels.com) has villas from £650 including all meals, drinks and minibar.
- You don’t actually have to stay in a hotel or resort. There are more than 800 guesthouses scattered across the Maldives. Read Tom Chesshyre’s brilliant book Gatecrashing Paradise for tips on travelling around the archipelago on a shoestring.
- Pack a pair of flip-flops in your hand baggage to slip on when you arrive in Malé. Trans-Maldivian seaplanes are not air-conditioned. I also keep a swimsuit handy so I can take a dip the moment I reach a resort (it can take a beat for luggage to be delivered to your villa).
- Lots of resorts operate on ‘island time’ to make the most of daylight hours, setting clocks an hour ahead of Malé.
- Mosquitos are generally manageable in the Maldives. Resorts carry out regular fogging and many provide insect repellent in the rooms.
- No plug adapter required. The three-pin socket is the same as in the UK.
- It’s worth investing in an underwater camera to capture the subterranean action.
Blow the budget
Velaa, Noonu Atoll
A 45-minute seaplane ride from Malé, this perfectly round island, laced with sandy paths, is as good a place to pick up design tips as it is to bronze your limbs. There isn't a muslin-draped pergola in sight, the whole aesthetic is cutting-edge and contemporary. Forty-seven villas shimmer with mother-of-pearl inlays, geometric turtle shell motifs and ultra-flattering lighting. As high tech as it is high-end, there are hover-boards, jetpacks and even a two-man submarine to play with, plus a nine-hole golf course. In the spa, you’ll find dream pods, a snow room and the latest Swiss facials. I had one of the best meals of my life in Aragu, one of the island’s art-filled restaurants.
How to book it: Velaa Private Island (velaaprivateisland.com) has villas from £2,380 including breakfast.
Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi, South Malé Atoll
Bollinger is served on the superyacht that whisks you from Malé to WA Maldives. And it’s a fitting introduction. Comprising three islands connected by bridges, size counts here. We’re talking minibars the size of wardrobes, private pools the size of public pools and 11 bars and restaurants. There’s no shortage of things to do, including the al-fresco hydrotherapy circuit and the frangipani-fringed main pool, which is the most beautiful I’ve seen – anywhere.
How to book it: Best at Travel offers seven nights from £7,386pp including return flights, transfers and half board (bestattravel.co.uk).
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How to get there
You can fly from London Heathrow to Velana International Airport (Malé) with British Airways (britishairways.com) from £640 return.