On any given day, Nicosia and Limassol residents trade barbs online about all sorts of issues. Which has the worst congestion, the worst drivers, the most preferential treatment from the government, and so on. But culinary relations make for a considerably more fruitful partnership. Not long ago, a Limassol favourite expanded to the capital, sharing its delights with the fine people of Nicosia.
Fat Bull, a name now synonymous with burgers in Limassol, had a somewhat stealthy beginning during the previous decade. It started from a ghost kitchen in 2017, meaning delivery or takeaway orders only, to a full-fledged dine-in restaurant in 2020, before expanding to Nicosia with a second restaurant in 2022.
Despite being away from Cyprus during those early years, word about Fat Bull had reached me all the way to the UK, with friends from back home swearing up and down that Cyprus had caught up with London’s burger scene. That was hyperbole, of course, at least in terms of scale. But, after trying it myself upon my return, it was accurate to say that Fat Bull could go toe-to-toe with the best of them. I would go as far as saying that its success during the tail end of the previous decade catalysed the blossoming of the burger scene in Limassol and redefined what locals could now expect from such establishments.
The original Fat Bull is situated right next to Tsirio stadium. The street is not exactly remembered as a haven for retail businesses, as storefronts used to become collateral damage on more heated matchdays. Not any more. The entire area is much more serene now that all three major teams moved to Alphamega stadium in western Limassol.
Dry-aged beef takes centre stage
Let’s get into the meat of the matter: the food. Simply put, Fat Bull has one of the most unique beefburgers in town, with a richness and depth of flavour that’s hard to find anywhere else. Naturally, the answer is in the beef they use to make their patties. They’ve always had great beef, having previously used dry-aged Aberdeen Angus ground in-house. They’ve recently switched to premium, 45-day dry-aged Galician beef (Rubia Gallega) imported from Spain. It’s excellent.
The old saying about “you get what you pay for” stands true here. These are not budget friendly burgers for someone looking to have them on an everyday basis, especially when ordering for a family. A classic cheeseburger (single, thick patty, double cheese, onion, pickles, sauce), one of the items we tried during our most recent visit, will set you back €14.50, for example.
This is not extortionate, and is in line with other comparable restaurants in Limassol, but a bill can quickly rise when adding more than two mains and a few sides. But, you can taste the quality in every burger.
Fried chicken and generous sides
Aside from beefburgers, they also make pulled pork and chicken sandwiches. Their ‘almost illegal fried chicken’ burger, the second item in our order, is another very strong recommendation. The coleslaw works especially well with the battered and fried piece of chicken.
Both the beef and chicken, by the way, are cooked extremely well. The former, for example, has the crust of a well-cooked piece of beef while being pink and tender in the middle, while the chicken is still moist and juicy under its golden exterior. We also tried their chicken fingers as a side, which come with a honey mustard sauce. Similarly well-made, they’re also quite generous size-wise, so they’re a portion of fries away from being a main meal.
We ended the night with a piece of Basque cheesecake. It is frankly delectable and enough for two people, especially after loading up on beef, chicken and fries. Its top is caramelised, almost burnt, with a dark brown finish, providing a rich, toasted flavour. Inside, it is soft, smooth, and custard-like, with a light, creamy texture. Suffice to say that Fat Bull gets my whole-hearted recommendation.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Burgers
WHERE Fat Bull, Steliou Kiriakidi 27, Limassol 3080
WHEN Monday to Saturday 12-10pm, Sunday closed
CONTACT 7777 1747
PRICE €12-16 for thick burgers, €7.90 for smashed burgers, €3-9 for sides