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Consider this your shortcut to finding the denim shape that works with the clothes you already own.
There are few wardrobe staples as enduring as a really good pair of jeans. The ongoing Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy revival has only reinforced the appeal: look back at photographs of her in the 90s and the formula was often remarkably simple: jeans, a great knit, a crisp shirt or a tailored coat. No complicated styling required.
And while denim trends inevitably come and go, right now there’s considerably more choice than the skinny-or-straight binary we became accustomed to. Baggy and wide-leg jeans have become everyday staples, barrel legs are still going strong, bootcuts have returned and, yes, slimmer denim is quietly making its way back into our wardrobes too. Which is good news for personal style but can make shopping for a new pair feel surprisingly complicated.
Rather than thinking about which silhouette you’re supposed to be wearing, it’s far more useful to consider what you already have in your wardrobe. Do you live in oversized blazers and loafers? Wear ankle boots all winter? Prefer a fitted knit with something more relaxed on the bottom? Calvin Klein’s denim fit guide spans everything from low-rise baggy jeans to 90s straight legs, making it a useful starting point for working out exactly what you’re looking for.
Here’s how the key shapes differ – and, more importantly, how to wear them…
If you want an everyday classic: straight-leg jeans
If you’re buying one pair of jeans to do a bit of everything, straight legs are difficult to beat. As the name suggests, the cut runs relatively straight through the leg rather than tapering closely towards the ankle or widening significantly towards the hem, making them particularly easy to switch between different shoes and proportions.
Calvin Klein’s 90s straight jeans lean into that Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy simplicity particularly well. Wear them with loafers and a white shirt now, then add a cashmere knit and wool coat once it starts getting properly cold. They work just as easily with trainers at the weekend or a pointed ankle boot for dinner, which is exactly why straight-leg denim has remained relevant.
If you like your denim relaxed: baggy and loose jeans
Baggy jeans have moved well beyond their initial Y2K revival. Roomier through the hip and leg than a traditional straight cut, they create a deliberately relaxed silhouette that works particularly well if much of your wardrobe already leans casual.
Low-rise baggy jeans
Calvin Klein’s low-rise baggy jeans sit lower on the waist and have plenty of room through the leg, so consider them the more overtly 90s option. Try them with a simple fitted T-shirt and leather jacket or lean fully into relaxed proportions with an oversized shirt and trainers.
If you like oversized proportions: wide-leg jeans
While baggy and wide-leg jeans are sometimes used interchangeably, there is a difference. A wide-leg cut is defined by its wider silhouette through the leg, whereas ‘baggy’ tends to describe the overall looser, slouchier fit of the jean.
Wide-leg jeans
Wide-leg denim is particularly good if you like playing with proportions. Pair Calvin Klein’s wide-leg jeans with a neat cardigan or fitted long-sleeved top, or add an oversized blazer and keep the layer underneath simple. They also work brilliantly with autumn footwear: trainers keep things relaxed, while a pointed shoe peeking out beneath the hem changes the mood entirely. The main consideration you need to think about is length. Decide which shoes you’re most likely to wear before committing to alterations – the hem you want with a flat trainer may be very different from the one that works with a heeled boot.
If you want something more trend-led: barrel jeans
The barrel jean has become a familiar sight over the past few seasons, but it still feels more directional than a straight or wide-leg pair. The distinguishing feature is its curved shape: the leg typically has more volume through the middle before narrowing again towards the ankle.
Relaxed barrel jeans
The shape means you really don’t need to do much else to make an outfit interesting. Calvin Klein’s relaxed barrel jeans can take the place of a more conventional straight leg with a white T-shirt and loafers, or work with a simple knit and ankle boots as we head further into winter. If you tend to rely on fairly classic pieces elsewhere in your wardrobe, they’re an easy way of changing the proportions without buying an entirely new outfit.
If most of your autumn wardrobe revolves around boots: bootcut jeans
After years spent firmly associated with the early 2000s, bootcut denim has found its way back into the conversation. The cut is narrower through the upper leg before widening towards the hem – originally, of course, to accommodate a boot underneath.
Skinny Bootcut Jean
Calvin Klein’s skinny bootcut jeans offer a slimmer interpretation of the shape and work naturally with heeled ankle boots, but don’t feel obliged to style them exclusively that way. A loafer or sleek trainer gives the silhouette a more casual feel.
The easiest way to make bootcuts feel current is to keep the rest of the outfit relatively uncomplicated: think a fine knit and blazer, a crisp shirt or a simple long coat rather than leaning too heavily into their Y2K origins.
Images: courtesy of brand
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