When waking to rain-splattered windows and chilly weather, nothing beats the feeling of curling up with a good book.
Cosy season is underway, and I’m constantly scouting for great reads. Every bibliophile knows the drill: downstairs, a large pile of books is growing, and apparently, I’ll be shopping until it touches the ceiling.
On Sunday, I couldn’t resist some book shopping, and a friend recommended just the place: Hold Fast Bookshop. Permanently moored in Leeds Dock, this converted coal barge is enjoying a new lease of life as a floating bookstore.
The store has attracted lots of attention online — visitors are calling Hold Fast the “cutest,” “coolest,” and “most magical” bookstore in Leeds. I decided to test the experience for myself.
From Leeds Station, it is a 20-minute walk to Hold Fast Bookshop. Squeezing past the crowds at Riveresque, I crossed Leeds Bridge, turned down cobbled Dock Street, and emerged onto a riverfront walkway. From here, I was surprised at how peaceful this route was.
The waterfront promenade was lined with rustling trees. As I approached Crown Point Bridge, I spotted a bright-yellow Leeds Water Taxi, its bow filled with passengers enjoying the River Aire views and blue skies.
These boats connect Leeds Train Station with Leeds Docks: another option to reach Hold Fast, for those who’d prefer to travel by water.
At Leeds Dock Marina, I descended a flight of stone steps and continued past moored barges. Within a few minutes, there it was: bobbing gently opposite The Canary.
I was immediately struck by the number of potted plants; the boat’s deck has been converted into an outdoor seating area. Above its entrance, golden lettering read: “Books, plants, and curiosities.”
Stepping inside, the wheelhouse was a treasure trove of cacti and succulents, each individually “named” with yellow stickers. Descending a steep flight of stairs, I emerged into a surprisingly spacious bookstore.
Bookshelves lined the perimeter of the boat, with additional shelving in the centre and a cosy seating area at the far end. The ceiling was decorated with ornate stained-glass skylights and lightbulbs strung from a wooden branch.
At 11.30am, the boat was already full of 15 to 20 passionate browsers.
It felt like I had stepped into a book club — the owners, Chris and Victoria Bonner, offered thoughtful recommendations, and snippets of literary conversations drifted across the room. There was a real community atmosphere.
As someone with chronic motion sickness, I hadn’t known what to expect from a floating bookstore. But as I browsed, I barely noticed the boat rocking.
Genres ranged from local non-fiction to a beautiful collection of classics, including a gorgeous copy of The Hobbit. However, what I found most impressive were the hand-scrawled notes beneath certain books.
“Beautiful book about acceptance,” read a note beneath an orange-fronted copy of Arathi Menon’s Da.
Another note described Jessica Field’s Eviction: A Social History of Rent: “A deeply personal, inspiring, and well-researched account of the ‘Save Our Homes LS26’ campaign.”
Apart from its books and communal atmosphere, I was impressed by Hold Fast’s location. For those craving a caffeine fix, this bookstore is surrounded by cafes, from Fearns Leeds Dock to Caffe Brigante.
Hold Fast is also located opposite the Royal Armouries, which has interactive exhibits and free entry.
When shopping in Leeds, I’m guilty of mainly sticking to the well-trodden streets around Trinity Shopping Centre.
After visiting Hold Fast, though, I’ll be making a conscious effort to venture a little further for my retail therapy.