Autumn’s beauty forecast is officially in: we’re going soft. And you’re probably wondering, ‘what does that mean for me?’ Fret not, as we caught up with makeup artist Jesse Walker to give us the ultimate lowdown for leaning into this more muted, but universally flattering, mood.
From burgundy smokey eyes (yes, slate grey is out) and lip stains that let you rock a bold colour without the commitment of topping up lipstick, to giving yourself that blurred-around-the-edges look you’ve probably seen on your favourite beauty muses rocking, soft-focus makeup is very achievable.
Back to brown
Brown mascara is officially having a major renaissance, thanks to Maybelline which has just launched Lash Sensation Body Mascara in two delicious hues: ‘brick brown’, with a red undertone, and ‘mocha brown’, with a neutral undertone.. Even beauty houses that once denounced the shade have succumbed to overwhelming consumer demand. Why? Our collective embrace of brown signals a move away from harsh definition in favour of a more effortless, forgiving aesthetic.
The key to keeping your eyes defined without losing impact lies in shade undertones – which is why Maybelline has a range of brown mascara shades to suit all eye colours – and making an eyelash curler non-negotiable, according to Jesse. “If you want to build subtle dimension, don't be afraid to layer, especially as modern formulas are far less prone to clumping,” Jesse says. “Apply a generous coat to one eye, switch over to the other while it dries and then return for a seamless second coat.”
Soft-focus finish
Did you hear that? It’s the whisper of true sophistication. Not that you’d necessarily register it. The hallmarks? A slightly blurred-around-the-edges finish that conveys relaxed ease rather than looking unfinished. “The beauty of this look is that, like a subtle frame, your features always take centre stage,” says the makeup artist Jesse Walker. “The key is keeping everything within the same tonal family, as we’ve here with lots of warm, caramel hues, to ensure it feels fresh, modern and intentional.”
The new smokey eye
A smokey eye doesn’t have to mean slate grey. We repeat: step away from the traditional monochrome for an unexpectedly refined twist on a classic. “The beauty of doing a rich, burgundy smokey eye is that it lets you experiment with colour while staying comfortably within your beauty zone,” Jesse says. “Switching up the palette adds instant modernity and feels softer than a cool-toned grey or dark brown – plus, burgundy is universally flattering for all eye colours.” Jesse notes that swapping default black mascara for a deep brown also creates a more mellow, harmonious symmetry rather than a stark, high-fashion contrast.
Red lip stain
Think of a lip stain as a gentle side-step into red – ideal for anyone that loves the drama of a vermillion pout without the high-maintenance upkeep. “A stain is the most wearable way to rock a bold lip,” says Jesse, noting that next-generation formulas ensure lips never feel parched. “You can apply a stain in the morning and top up throughout the day with a soft balm if you prefer a dewier finish or want to blur fine lines.” While the off-duty French-girl look might skip mascara entirely, Jesse recommends pairing the lip with a rich, brick-brown mascara for a more wearable cool-girl-with-polish approach.”