Everything to Know About Espresso Hair, Fall’s Richest Brunette Color Trend

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Blond hair gets a lot of attention in the color conversation, but this fall, a shade on the polar opposite end of the color spectrum is getting all the buzz: espresso. “Espresso hair is a rich, dark brown. Coffee, espresso, chocolate, milk chocolate, dark chocolate—these have always been the words we use for rich brunette shades, and right now the trend is espresso,” says hairstylist Chris McMillan. The shift isn’t just about going dark. McMillan says in the salon, espresso is being requested by girls who have highlighted their hair for years and are now getting rid of the highlights to go back to a more natural, rich, wearable brown.

What sets espresso apart from other shades of brown is its depth. “Girls are going a little further to the darker side. They’re not playing it safe with bronde or highlights anymore—they’re going to a richer, deeper brown,” says McMillan. Professional colorists will know what you want if you ask for espresso, but to describe it simply, Rubi Talavera, Matrix brand ambassador, describes it as a dark brown with chocolate undertones: “So it reflects warmth that isn’t necessarily red,” she says. Talavera explains that the espresso undertones are what differ from other brunettes. “It’s hard to achieve a dark brown that doesn’t reflect too much red in the sun; it can be best achieved using demi-permanent colors,” Talavera adds.

As for who can wear espresso, McMillan says the shade works on all skin tones. “At the end of the day, espresso hair is just a great brunette, and every skin tone can support it. Your skin tone dictates whether you go with a warm espresso or a cool espresso,” McMillan explains. Talavera, however, thinks medium-dark skin tones, specifically, are the best fit for the color. “It is very dark and can make some with fair skin look a bit washed out,” Talavera notes.

Unlike blond hair, espresso and brunettes generally require significantly less maintenance to look fresh and healthy. “What’s nice about going darker is that you don’t have to use peroxide typically. You can use extremely low-volume peroxide and glosses, which makes going darker a much healthier way to color your hair,” says McMillan.

If you’re currently blonde and considering espresso, McMillan says it’s achievable, but not at home; have it professionally done. “Once hair is blonde, it’s very porous, so you have to put pigment back into the hair before putting the brown on,” he explains. “As easy as it seems to just go brown, there’s a process, and the first time it should be done by a professional to achieve that sexy, even-toned brunette.”

Talavera describes the process as using two levels lighter than the desired color as filler to deposit back underlying pigments. She recommends Matrix Super Sync for this. Once that’s done, the desired color, a demi-permanent dye, is deposited to leave hair looking shiny and multidimensional when it moves. She also notes that curlier textures have higher porosity, meaning the dye will soak in rather than sit on top, so using a shade lighter than the desired outcome will guarantee the hair won’t look too dark or almost black.

To keep your espresso color glossy and not flat or faded, both experts recommend using color-safe shampoo and stylers at home. Talavera also suggests a bond-repairing treatment like Matrix’s Instacure Build-a-Bond Billion Bond Oil to protect hair from heat and prevent color fading.