This year’s Readers' Choice Awards demonstrated that impressive size doesn’t always beat quaint charm. Among the top 20 cities that made the best cities in Europe list, you might be surprised to find a few lesser-known entries. Of course, the usual suspects like Paris, at number one, Rome, Lisbon and Madrid are present, but there are a couple of cities that cannot compete with these European capitals in size, but still offer the ultimate city break experience.
More middle-sized cities also make an appearance, with Genoa in Italy at number 19 and Zurich at number 13, while smaller destinations such as Monte Carlo climb as high as number 10. But one of the most surprising entries has to be the small but mighty Rovinj in Croatia.
Rovinj, Croatia
Getty ImagesMy first ever trip to Croatia was a road trip to its Istrian coast and Rovinj was the very last stop of my journey. Also known as ‘Little Venice’, the city sits across the Adriatic from Italy's Floating City and spent centuries under Venetian rule, an influence that remains visible in everything from its architecture to its food. Walking through its tangle of cobbled streets, past pastel-coloured houses and little restaurants serving fresh pasta and seafood, it was hard to believe I hadn’t accidentally crossed the border into Italy.
I loved every second of my time there, calmly strolling through the old town, eating burek (a type of Croatian pastry) and watching people sunbathe on the rocks. There is such a sense of calm that comes with being in a small place so close to the sea, probably helped by the fact that this side of Croatia is not quite as popular with mainstream tourists as Dubrovnik and Split. I thought people would catch on earlier to the Istrian magic but even now, years after my first visit, it still feels far removed from the crowds that descend on some of Croatia’s better-known destinations.
That doesn’t mean this corner of Croatia has any less to offer. The city is full of fabulous restaurants to try, including Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte, and much-loved local Croatian spot Puntulina. For a luxury stay, the hotel to book is Grand Park, which features jaw-dropping views of the bay, as well as a spa and an infinity pool.
Beyond its food scene, Rovinj is the sort of place that rewards doing very little. Climb through the Old Town to the Church of St Euphemia, whose bell tower dominates the skyline, before heading south to Zlatni Rt (Golden Cape), a forest park where pine-shaded paths lead to rocky coves and swimming spots. For a glimpse into the city’s fishing heritage, the Batana Ecomuseum celebrates the traditional flat-bottomed wooden boats that have been part of life here for centuries.
Rovinj in the Adriatic Sea
Getty ImagesIf you’d like to explore more inland, Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery is a fabulous retreat that is part of Relais & Châteaux and worth the (approximately) half-hour drive from Rovinj. If you love wine and you don’t mind travelling a bit further from the city, you can’t miss a tour of Kozlović Winery, with its beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the rolling hills.
For a city of around 13,000 people, Rovinj packs an extraordinary amount in – and its place among Europe’s best suddenly doesn’t seem quite so surprising.