Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak trades the dial for gemstones in its high jewellery collection

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Few designs in luxury have proved as enduring as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, a timepiece that, despite countless iterations since its introduction in 1972, remains instantly recognisable and revered around the world. Now, the manufacture is exploring a new facet of the geometric icon, translating its distinctive silhouette, integrated bracelet, and bold design language into high jewellery for the first time.

Debuting in three distinct series – Dream of Joux, Frosted Gold and Risoud Eclipse – the Royal Oak Joaillerie Collection is a natural evolution of the brand’s heritage and commitment to craftsmanship. After all, the watchmaker has been creating gem-set watches ever since it established its own jewellery workshop, the Metiers d’Art Atelier, in the 1980s, bringing together expert jewellers, gem-setters, and engravers to work on some of its most precious timepieces. The high jewellery collection brings that heritage into the 21st century, allowing the maison’s design language to exist beyond the dial.

At the heart of the collection is the Vallee de Joux, the Swiss Jura valley that has been home to Audemars Piguet since its founding in 1875. Its landscape, changing seasons, and play of light at different times of the day inspired several of the collection’s designs, translating the natural environment into precious gems and intricate arrangements.

Dream of Joux is perhaps the most expressive interpretation of the concept, as artisans use vibrant gemstones, contrasting textures, and bold architecture to evoke the magic of its frozen lakes, night skies, and flora. The Tree of Life Cuff, for example, recalls the lush foliage of the region with cognac-coloured sapphires and tsavorites over 18-carat pink gold, creating an intricate piece that dazzles in the light.

Meanwhile, the Blue Moon Cuff evokes the glow of a blue moon with brilliant-cut diamonds, deep blue sapphires, and Swiss blue and London blue topazes. Those drawn to the warmth of a sunrise will appreciate the Sunburst Cuff, which offers a sparkling array of diamonds, yellow and orange spessartites, as well as yellow, pink and orange sapphires arranged in a sunray design. All cuffs are finished with the Royal Oak’s signature octagonal clasp. A necklace and its matching pair of drop earrings round out the collection. Crafted in blue titanium and 18-carat white gold, they evoke icicles on a cold night, with pear-cut diamonds adding a delicate brillance to the wintry pieces.

Elsewhere, Frosted Gold revisits a technique already familiar to Audemars Piguet fans. Developed with longtime collaborator and Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci, the series brings her signature Florentine gold-hammering technique to the forefront. Here, cuffs and chokers are crafted with the same architectural beauty as the Royal Oak’s integrated bracelets. Each piece is finished with a shimmering texture that catches the light like diamond dust, and the 18-carat white, yellow and pink gold options echo the changing light of the seasons in the valley.

For a more dramatic interpretation, the Risoud Eclipse line explores the contrast between darkness and brilliance. Inspired by the dark allure of the Risoud Forest and the rare light of an eclipse, the designs combine matte black titanium with sugarloaf emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds, creating a striking interplay of shadow, colour and light. The Royal Oak’s iconic geometry continues to be the framework here, and the result is an edgy reinterpretation of the classic. 

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak might have begun as a watchmaking icon 54 years ago, but its high jewellery collection proves that good design does more than endure; it can also evolve beyond its original form.