California on alert for waves of up to 4.9 meters: “Never turn your back on the ocean”

Beaches in the San Francisco Bay Area remain under alert for hazardous conditions. The National Weather Service (NWS) warns of breaking waves of up to 16 feet, about 4.9 meters, in addition to strong rip currents and so-called sneaker waves, capable of catching even experienced people by surprise.

The warning will remain in effect until Monday night. The agency was unequivocal in its recommendation for those approaching the coast: “Never turn your back on the ocean”. It also urged people to stay out of the water and keep away from piers, jetties, rocks, and other structures along the shore.

What are “sneaker waves”

Sneaker waves are waves that can be much larger than those that come before them and suddenly surge onto the beach. The danger is that they can appear after several minutes of seemingly calm surf and reach areas of sand that seemed safe.

The NWS warns that these waves can sweep people out to sea, including even experienced swimmers and surfers. The risk is now compounded by strong rip currents and especially high surf.

We want to reiterate how dangerous it is going to be along our Pacific coast this weekend

SMN

The warning affects sectors of the north coast of the Bay Area, Point Reyes National Seashore, and the coast of the San Francisco Peninsula. There are also advisories related to surf and flooding in San Francisco, Monterey Bay, and Big Sur.

Flood risk through Tuesday

"The surf is not the only threat. The NWS has a coastal flood advisory in effect until 3:00 p.m. Tuesday, October 13 for San Francisco, northern Monterey Bay, and southern Monterey Bay and Big Sur.

The agency anticipates up to 1.5 feet of flooding, about 46 centimeters, above ground level in low-lying areas near the coast and along waterways subject to the tides.

The combination of high tides and a higher-than-usual sea level can cause water to reach beaches, trails, roads, parking lots, and parks located along the coast. Authorities recommend not crossing flooded areas of unknown depth and to respect any closures or barricades.

California braces for a difficult winter

The current situation is also unfolding as scientists continue to closely monitor the conditions that could shape the winter in California. A strong El Niño event, combined with exceptionally high tides and rising sea levels, could trigger major episodes of erosion and flooding at different points along the coast.

One of the keys is a Kelvin wave associated with El Niño. This mass of warm water moves across the Pacific and can temporarily raise sea level off the western coast of the United States. According to experts cited by the Los Angeles Times, the effect could contribute to California recording some of the highest sea levels of its modern record this winter.

The problem arises when that higher baseline level coincides with high tides, large waves, and storms. Under those circumstances, the water can advance much farther over low-lying coastal areas and increase the erosion of beaches and cliffs.

For now, the NWS message is far more immediate: stay away from the water, avoid structures by the sea, and do not let your guard down during a seemingly calm swell period. Sneaker waves can arrive without warning.