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The things that Kate Berlant can do with her face are, in a word, extraordinary. The comedian—who handily stole scenes in her longtime collaborator John Early’s film Maddie’s Secret this summer—is objectively striking, with wide, dark eyes and curls that reach the small of her back. But she’s also unafraid to totally transform her visage with exaggerated eye rolls and face-contorting cringes. (It’s not for nothing that in their 2022 sketch special Would It Kill You to Laugh?, Early and Berlant tussle over custody of “crossed eyes” in their fictional comedy divorce.)
Berlant’s new hour-long HBO special, Parmesan—out October 16—is as delightfully embodied as ever—but it also sees her tread some sensitive new territory. Berlant doesn’t refer to her current partner, musician Naomi McPherson, by name, but she does touch on her queer awakening as a 30-something, mentioning her “lesbian boyfriend” in the waiting room while Berlant froze her eggs.
Yet McPherson—who is credited as an executive producer on the special—was happily on hand to support Berlant at both an early screening of Parmesan at Brain Dead Studios in Los Angeles on Wednesday and the after-party at legendary drag bar Plaza Nightclub.
“I was exceptionally nervous, in a way that I was not expecting, to watch the special with my friends and people that I respect so much,” Berlant told me in a room stuffed with dragtastic feathered headpieces and jewel-toned gowns at Plaza, clad in Bottega Veneta herself. “Stand-up is an inherently embarrassing art form, and there’s nowhere to hide. I felt a little out-of-body watching it.”
Among those who gathered to cheer Berlant on at Plaza were various members of LA’s teeming music and comedy scenes. As former Hacks costars Hannah Einbinder and Meg Stalter reunited at the bar, Saturday Night Live alums Vanessa Bayer, Aidy Bryant, and Molly Shannon mingled by the dance floor, and I made way too much eye contact with one Nathan Fielder.
Outside, guests like Ayo Edebiri, McPherson’s Muna bandmate Katie Gavin, comedian Robby Hoffman, and Hoffman’s wife, television personality Gabby Windey, considered the tuna on crispy rice and spaghetti served from an honest-to-God Parmesan rind (what else?) as they sipped spicy margaritas, danced to Donna Summer, and applied themed temporary tattoos.
When I asked Berlant how she celebrated taping the special at Plaza several months ago, she recalled: “Jacqueline Novak and I and our partners left here at, like, 1:30 a.m. and went to Swingers Diner.” In other words, it was post-Parmesan perfection.
Take an exclusive look inside Berlant’s intimate Parmesan after-party below.
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Berlant and Naomi McPherson
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Berlant and Nathan Fielder
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Berlant with Gabby Windey and Robby Hoffman
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Berlant with Conner O’Malley
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Berlant with Molly Shannon
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Berlant and Jacqueline Novak
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Berlant and Lucy Dacus
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Ayo Edebiri and Aidy Bryant
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Hannah Einbinder
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John Early
A guest modeling one of the night’s party favors: a “Parmesan” temporary tattoo.
Spaghetti served in a giant, thematically appropriate Parmesan rind.
Emma Specter is the Culture Writer at Vogue, where she covers film, TV, books, politics, news, and (almost) anything queer. She has previously worked at Garage and LAist and has freelanced for outlets including The Hairpin, Bon Appetit, them, The Hollywood Reporter, and more. Her first book, More Please: On ... Read More