The Dashain holidays offer many Nepalis an opportunity to take a break from their daily routines and explore the mountains, making autumn a popular season for trekking. Despite concerns over damaged roads, landslides and flash floods, the relatively new route to Annapurna I North Base Camp promises an extraordinary Himalayan adventure for those willing to venture off the beaten track.
I had been travelling solo for nearly two years when an unexpected invitation changed my plans for Annapurna I North Base Camp. I had intended to begin the trek on September 24, 2025, but a message from Rojina Maharjan later that day persuaded me to postpone it until October 3 so that she and her friends could join me.
With the Meteorological Forecasting Division warning against long-distance travel, the decision was not easy. Nevertheless, we decided to take our chances. Before setting out, I washed my shoes to remove any seeds that might be carried into the higher-altitude environment and become invasive, a precaution that many travellers overlook.
On October 3, I headed to Kathmandu’s New Bus Park to purchase tickets. Booking was unavailable, so I bought tickets for three of us on the day of departure. Four more companions were to join us at Tatopani the following morning.
Our bus left at 5:30 pm and reached Tatopani, Bhurung, at around 8 am the next day. From there, we needed a jeep to Humkhola Dovan, the starting point of the trek.
The journey quickly became an adventure in itself. Heavy rain the previous night had blocked the road, and residents of Narchyang village were clearing the debris. According to Tej Bahadur Gurung, chairman of the Annapurna Area Management Committee, vehicles could resume operating only after the obstruction was cleared.
When a few jeeps finally arrived, scores of waiting trekkers rushed to secure a ride. Drivers demanded twice the committee’s usual fare of Rs. 8,000 per jeep. Despite our objections and complaints to the police, the inflated fares remained unchanged. We eventually waited five hours for a jeep from Beni.
With little choice, we stood on the vehicle’s cargo bed as it negotiated rough, uneven terrain for two and a half hours. We reached Humkhola Dovan at around 3:30 pm.
Gurung was there to welcome arriving trekkers. I thanked him for his pioneering efforts to open the route to the base camp, which provides access to the northern side of Annapurna I. The mountain was first climbed in 1950 by French mountaineers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, accompanied by Nepali climber Ang Tharki Sherpa.
The trail follows the Nilgiri River through lush forests of rhododendron and Himalayan pine. The roar of Narchyang Waterfall and the river’s glacial-blue waters accompanied us as we climbed towards Gurans Danda, at about 3,000 metres. After a brief rest, we descended before climbing again towards Phutphute, where a magnificent waterfall plunges into a gorge.
By the time we reached Phutphute at 5:45 pm, daylight was fading. A small teahouse had recently opened there, but its rooms were full. As most of my companions were exhausted, we persuaded the owners to let us pitch a tent nearby. The night was uncomfortable, but the satisfaction of reaching our first stop outweighed the discomfort.
One practical point for future trekkers is that mobile network coverage disappears beyond Gurans Danda.
The following morning, birdsong woke me at around 5:30 am. Despite the freezing night, I stepped outside and was rewarded with a beautiful view of Phutphute Waterfall. After breakfast, we resumed our journey at 6:30 am.
Within half an hour, we reached Sadhikharka, at 3,160 metres, where accommodation is generally better than at Phutphute. The trail continued beside the river, with towering rocky slopes rising on the opposite side. The rivers relentless rush through the gorge made the walk feel almost dreamlike.
We passed Gufaphat and continued towards Sky Cave. Beyond it, Tilicho Peak appeared in all its grandeur. Its distinctive silhouette reminded several trekkers of Mount Kailash, prompting animated discussions along the trail.
At around noon, we arrived at Bhusket Mela, at 3,551 metres, where the new route joins the older trail from Lete in Mustang. The older trail has historical significance as the route followed by the 1950 Annapurna I expedition. We stopped for snacks and waited for the rest of our companions before continuing.
Beyond Bhusket Mela, the landscape changed dramatically. The forests gave way to open, rugged terrain, revealing expansive views of Annapurna I to the south-east, Tilicho Peak to the north and parts of the Nilgiri massif to the west.
After roughly three more hours of walking, we reached Panchakunda at 4,050 metres. The settlement, with its tented accommodation, was packed with trekkers.
I immediately contacted the manager and requested beds for our group of seven.
While waiting for the others, I stood gazing at the surrounding peaks. The immense Annapurna massif, Tilicho Peak and Nilgiri massif made the arduous journey worthwhile.
However, the evening brought fresh concerns. Some of my companions began feeling unwell, and I helped them as best I could. The accommodation also proved far more crowded than expected. Although the manager had initially said the tent could accommodate 14 people, additional trekkers were squeezed in, making an already difficult night even more uncomfortable. Sleep came only after midnight.
The following morning brought renewed excitement. Like hundreds of other trekkers, we shared one ambition: to reach the upper base camp at dawn. We woke up at around 5 am and began our ascent.
The trail was moderately challenging, winding through the foothills of Tilicho Peak. After an hour and a half of walking, we reached Base Camp II.
As we approached Annapurna I, the thunderous roar of avalanches echoed through the mountains at intervals of around 10 minutes. Known for its unpredictable avalanches, the mountain offered a powerful reminder of nature’s immense force. We explored the surroundings of Base Camp II and the sacred Panchakunda Lake before returning to our camp.
We then descended to Humkhola, where we caught a jeep to Beni at around 9 pm. Having contacted a jeep driver in advance made our late-evening return possible. We were fortunate that the weather had remained clear throughout our trek, although rain began to fall by the time we reached Humkhola.
Despite the exhausting journey, unpredictable road conditions and inadequate accommodation, the trek offered something increasingly difficult to find on popular trails: a sense of discovery.
From the thundering waterfall at Phutphute to the sweeping mountain views beyond the tree line, every stage revealed a different face of the Annapurna region. The journey also highlighted the challenges trekkers face when roads are damaged, transport fares rise sharply and accommodation fails to meet demand during the busy autumn season.
Annapurna North is a promising destination for adventurous trekkers, including those looking to make the most of their Dashain holidays. However, its potential depends on responsible tourism, reliable travel information, fair transport fares and safe accommodation.
Those planning the journey should check current weather forecasts, road conditions and lodging availability, and allow sufficient time for delays. The mountains may be magnificent, but reaching them safely requires preparation as much as determination.
(The author is a journalist at The Rising Nepal.)
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